Destination Delirium

I was excited when I woke up with a plan for Friday—to find Delirium. After reading the story, some of you might think that I started out there (pun definitely intended). My quest to find the best coffee shops in the area is not limited to downtown and I had heard about a café in Gresham that was supposed to be a good one, Café Delirium (thanks Desiree). Since I’m trying to get to know Portland and the best way to get the feel for a place is to see it on foot, I decided to walk from downtown out to the café, following Burnside Street as far as I could. Google Maps said it was only 13.5 miles (it turned out to be 14.3 miles) and estimated it would take 4.5 hours. That was only half a day—no problem!

Before I left the house at 8:30am, I later saw in the paper that the forecast was for periods of rain. That made me a little nervous because I didn’t want to get soaked. Then again, living in Portland, you have to get used to walking in the rain. I wasn’t going to let it stop me. Besides, if it started raining too much, I could just step into a café along the way and wait it out. The downpours here don’t usually last too long. The drizzle does, but not the heavy rain.

It was a great morning for walking, despite the humidity. The temperature was cool, but there was no wind, so I was comfortable walking in a t-shirt, jeans and my ever-present Chacos.

Fountains and mountains, two reasons Portlanders love living here

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The Bipartisan Café

When I asked for help in locating good Portland cafés, one of the first suggestions to come in was the Bipartisan Café in Southeast. The other day I had wandered to the top of Mount Tabor, so it was just a short jaunt down the mountain and over to the café. I stopped in to check it out.

Arriving at the café at 2pm, I was surprised to find it full of people. There was only one open table. Hmm. Obviously a popular place. The wooden tables and chairs showed signs of heavy usage, as did the couches sitting immediately to the right of the door. The hardwood floor was worn through all the varnish and down to splinters in some places. It was clear that the café was a popular meeting place for the neighborhood. The front window was covered with posters advertising local  bands and other events. Every Friday evening from 7-9pm, the Bipartisan has live music (no cover charge).

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Wandering about Southeast PDX

It was a brisk and somewhat damp morning in Portland when I set out walking. The sun was trying to burn through the light clouds, but with rain forecasted for the afternoon, I was not optimistic that it would win. Like my last wandering, I headed eastward again, crossing the Hawthorne (green) bridge over the tranquil Willamette River. It was just before 9am when I crossed, and there was a constant stream of bicycles zipping towards me as commuters made their way into downtown. Portland is a bike-friendly city (another sustainability thing) and the mayor, Sam Adams has a reputation for advocating for bike commuting. He recently (and controversially) designated some of the city’s water and sewer funds to improving bike lanes and bike safety.

As I crossed the river, I realized that my toes were cold. That may sound like a strange observation, but since my trip to Beijing this summer, I have hardly worn any shoes other than my open-toed Chaco sandals. When I first got them, I was a little skeptical about their suitability for walking. In addition, wearing sandals seemed a little too Portlandish for me. However, after spending five weeks in Beijing, I admit I really like them. They keep your feet cool and are good for wandering for miles, especially once your feet get used to them. However, as the rainy season approaches, I don’t know if I will put the sandals away in favor of shoes or not. Might be a little too cool to keep wearing them (the weather, not me).

On the other side of the bridge I followed Clay street until it veered right and turned into Ladd Street. Ladd took me through a neighborhood of large older houses and there were massive elm trees on either side of the street, forming a tunnel overhead. At the end of the tunnel was Ladd Circle, a wide traffic circle with a small park in the center. On the opposite side of the circle I spotted Palio Dessert and Espresso House (review here). It looked like a great place to make my first stop of the day.

After a longer than expected stop at Palio, my wandering began anew. I left the café and walked up Harrison Street, which I would follow for the next few miles. Harrison, as it turns out, is one of the streets that Portland has modified to encourage bicycle commuting. There are bike symbols all along the street, and medians had been placed at major cross streets (leaving a gap for bikes) to discourage cars from traveling down it. As far as I could tell, the changes seemed to be effective. I saw many more bikes than cars or pedestrians.

Being bike-friendly

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Palio Dessert and Espresso House

At the center of the historic Ladd’s addition, in Southeast Portland, Palio Dessert and Espresso House strives for an Old World (European) feel. When I walked in, the café was quiet, with classical music playing softly in the background. There were a couple people in the back room staring at their laptops. I asked the barista two questions: First, what kind of espresso did Palio’s serve? and 2) What was Palio’s best drink? His answers: Stumptown espresso; and a “Mexican mocha”, with cinnamon, nutmeg and ground up chilies. I wasn’t in the mood for straight Stumptown espresso and the mocha sounded a little rich for first thing in the morning, so I opted for a latte instead.

Palio

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Café Cello

Café Cello, located downtown across Yamhill Street from the Central Library, shares a Victorian-style house with the Pulse Salon. The café is fairly intimate, with five tables plus a row of seats along the front window. You can sit at tables on the front sidewalk if you prefer to watch the Max trains pass by. Inside, the deep red walls give the space enough character to be interesting, but are not so outlandish that they are distracting. The café has a couple stuffed chairs that are good for sitting and reading.

Café Cello

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