Forty years of highs, lows and everything in between: Jim Roberts, one of Portland's original "Coffee People"

I recently met with Jim Roberts, owner of Jim & Patty’s Coffee on Northeast Fremont, to hear the story of his friendly neighborhood café and its quirky sense of humor. I also wanted to learn about the history of Coffee People, a Portland coffee company founded by Roberts and his wife Patty. Coffee People, like Stumptown today, was once the beloved local brand trying to expand nationally. During our interview, Roberts shared the long history of Coffee People, and also gave me some insight into some of the challenges associated with trying to grow a company into a national brand. 

Jim and Patty Roberts

Starting out in the ‘70s

Sitting down to talk with Jim Roberts, you get the sense you are talking with someone who has seen just about everything during his time in business, someone who has had successes and failures but who has also managed to keep things in perspective.

The Roberts, who have been married for 41 years, started out selling coffee in Eugene in 1973. At the time, Jim was attending the University of Oregon, and in order to raise money for school, they began to sell coffee at Eugene’s Saturday Market.

In those days, the Roberts bought their coffee from a little company called Coffee Bean Coffee Company, also located in Eugene. Jeff Ferguson, who Jim called the “coffee pioneer of Oregon,” founded the small coffee roaster.

“When Jeff started, he had a little counter, 150 square feet and a roaster. He stood behind the counter and sold his coffee out of a jar. I loved the coffee, so it was what we bought and sold at Saturday Market.”

Over the years, Coffee Bean ended up becoming the huge Portland roaster known as Coffee Bean International (CBI). At the time, though, Coffee Bean Coffee was just a small company struggling to survive. It expanded from Eugene into the Portland market, but in 1976, the company went through bankruptcy.

Seeing an opportunity, Jim and Patty bought Coffee Bean’s Portland store, moved to Portland and changed the name of the store from Coffee Bean to Coffee Man. They picked the new name mostly for economic reasons.

“The B-E was easy to change into an M and wouldn’t cost us much, so we called it Coffee Man.”

The birth of Coffee People

The couple eventually sold Coffee Man to a relative and moved to the Oregon Coast. After a few years of roasting coffee there the Roberts moved back to Portland in 1983 and started a new café in Portland called Coffee People. Over the next decade and a half, Coffee People would take them on a roller coaster ride of successes and failures. It would grow from just Jim and Patty selling coffee behind the counter in their lone café, to 48 stores in cities across the country—reaching as far east as Chicago and as far south as Phoenix.

Early on, though, this growth did not look likely. In 1985, just two years after starting Coffee People, the Roberts found themselves without any money, credit, or coffee beans.

“One Monday morning I saw no reason to open,” Jim said, “we didn't have anything to sell and we couldn't buy any more, so I went to CBI and told [Ferguson] that I was done, that we couldn’t do it anymore.”

At the time he met with Ferguson, Roberts owed CBI $4,000. Ferguson and his business partner, Gary Talboy, offered to buy Coffee People for $4,400. Lacking a better offer, Roberts accepted.

“They owned all of it, for $4,400,” he said.

As soon as Jim accepted the offer, Ferguson and Talboy turned around and offered Roberts a job managing Coffee People.

Jim accepted that offer too, and he and Patty began running Coffee People with the idea that they could someday buy back half of it. For five years, the couple ran the company but did not own any of it.  

“Everyone thought we owned it, but we didn't. We put our picture on the logo for job security. I figured if our picture was on it, they would have a hard time firing us,” he said with a chuckle. “They didn't object, so there we were, the public face of this company we didn't own.”

The picture on today's Jim & Patty's sign is the same one that went on the original Coffee People sign

In 1991, just five years later, Coffee People was valued at $2.6 million. The Roberts made a deal with Ferguson to buy half of it, using the earnings of the company to fund the purchase.  

Expansion and Sale

In the mid-1990s, with the economy looking good and Starbucks on the rise, Coffee People prepared to expand nationally.

“Many people thought that there would be a second to Starbucks somewhere—a Burger King to their McDonald’s,” said Roberts.

To fund the expansion, Coffee People started taking small, private offerings, using the money to build new stores. Roberts knew what they were getting into when they accepted the outside investments.

“The proposition is simple. You want to own some of a big company or all of a little company. If you want to see the company meet all its goals, you need that money, but if you lose control, it may not be the same company as before.”

In 1996, with sights set even higher, Coffee People held its initial public offering on Nasdaq. The owners sold about half the company for $9 million. Expectations for growth were high, but it quickly became obvious that things were not going as planned.

“By the second quarter of '96, we found that our expansion was not succeeding. We'd opened all of these stores across the U.S. but they weren't ramping up fast enough. They were losing money and our opportunity to raise more capital was gone. All we could do was seek a buyer.”

Coffee People entered into a reverse merger with Second Cup, the number one coffee chain in Canada at that time. Second Cup was looking to expand into the US, so it bought Coffee People and Gloria Jean’s, another American coffee retailer. Second Cup struggled to incorporate its new acquisitions, however, and about a year later sold them to Diedrich Coffee.

The California-based Diedrich did not have much success with Coffee People either. Instead of re-branding the cafés under its own name, Diedrich kept the Coffee People name. However, customers could sense that the cafés were no longer run like the original Coffee People. In 1998, Roberts left Coffee People, saying that that he “no longer recognized the company.”

A Texas adventure

After leaving Coffee People, Roberts moved to Texas to go to seminary. He was planning to become a minister, but after a short time decided it was not his calling.

The thing that did stick with him from his time in seminary was a love of Texas barbecue. Tired of The Lone Star State, the Roberts moved back to Portland and opened a barbecue restaurant. The restaurant was mortally wounded when 9/11 struck, pushing the US deeper into a recession. The restaurant went bankrupt, costing the Roberts everything they had left from the Coffee People days. They moved to a small apartment in Tigard and tried to start over.

Back in the coffee business

After four years being out of coffee, the Roberts’ non-compete agreement with Diedrich expired, allowing them to get back into the coffee business. In November 2002, Jim and Patty opened up a new shop on Fremont, under the moniker of Jim & Patty's Coffee, which is a beloved neighborhood cafe today. The whole family is involved in the business. Patty is “the boss,” the couple’s daughter is the baker, and both of their sons work in the café.

Jim & Patty’s carries on many of the traditions that started with the original Coffee People. The café has a familiar feel, with plenty of Portland “weird” thrown in for good measure. The quirkiness extends itself to the café’s famed sour cream coffee cakes, which carry names like the “Naughty Supermodel Marionberry” and “Give PEACH a Chance.”

“People still see us as Coffee People. And we basically run it as if it were a Coffee People. Somebody called us a 'post-hippie' phenomenon. We have tie-dye here and there. It's our niche.”

Roberts believes that Jim & Patty’s coffee is of a higher quality than his earlier enterprises. He says that the café’s coffee quality has improved, and he attributes this to its relationship with Stumptown, which roasts coffee for Jim & Patty’s and also trains the café’s baristas.

“The quality of coffee today at Jim & Patty's, because of Stumptown, is much better. We're brewing to much higher standards than we ever did at Coffee People.”

In addition to Stumptown coffee, Jim & Patty’s sells a coffee from Caravan that is a throwback to the 1990s (dark, with an edge to it), as well as the Black Tiger blend, which was Coffee People's most famous brew, and still roasted by the company. The high-caffeine blend (that includes Robusta beans) is anything but subtle. Roberts described the Black Tiger this way:

“It's like country music or thrasher rock. It's not Mozart, but my customers love it. There's sort of a Black Tiger subculture here that comes in and 'drinks the tiger' because they can't get it anywhere else.”

While I was there, I tried a shot of the Black Tiger. I can only say that those who drink the Black Tiger are far tougher than me. It is about the earthiest (think peat moss in a cup) coffee I have ever had. Most of the Portland cafés cringe at the thought of selling anything with Robusta in it, but not Roberts.

 “We're kind of outlaws for doing it [selling the Black Tiger], but that's why we're not part of the “Third Wave.” We've always tried to have the attitude to give the customers what they want, so if they want the Black Tiger, we’ll give it to them.”

Bonding with the neighborhood through tragedy

In addition to the ups and downs that the coffee business has brought them, the Roberts have also dealt with some personal difficulties. One of the Roberts' sons, who was a barista at Jim & Patty’s, committed suicide in 2006. As a result they planned to close the shop for a while, since no one felt like working. In an effort to support the family, people from the Beaumont neighborhood came to the Roberts and told them they wanted to run the café for them while they were grieving.

“Some of the people came out to our apartment in Tigard and said ‘Jim, we'd like to run the store for you,’” Roberts told me. “They asked for the keys and did their best to run the store. People baked things at home and brought them in, made coffee and stood behind the counters. They covered the place with flowers.”

The gesture really cemented the Roberts' commitment to the neighborhood, where they now live. It sounded like they would be there for a while.

“The neighborhood has just treated us like family. We're in a great spot.”

Lessons learned

I asked Jim if there were any lessons that had stuck with him from his years at Coffee People. He brought up the challenges of trying to grow the business into a national chain.

“It's a battle between the experts and accountants trained at a university and the instinctual entrepreneurs who understand an area, and have insight into what the customers want,” he explained. “I'm not saying that the MBAs don't [understand], but Coffee People got invaded by lots of people who knew nothing about the industry.”

At one point, Coffee People hired a CEO who had run other very successful food companies. The new CEO made some decisions that seemed counterintuitive to Roberts. One particularly telling episode happened when the company hired a research firm to help decide which cities Coffee People should expand into.

“I knew we were in trouble, when after paying $25,000 for this study, we were told that Portland was number 38 on the list of cities where Coffee People could be successful. Vicksburg, Mississippi, was number 37 on the list. If you've ever been to Vicksburg [a rural town with a metro population of less than 50,000 people] you'd know that there's something wrong with that. I knew that if that was wrong, the whole thing was probably wrong.”

Although these kinds of problems eventually led to Coffee People’s downfall, Roberts does not foresee the same things happening to Stumptown.* He believes that the situations between Coffee People and Stumptown are very different.

“Stumptown is a more substantial company than Coffee People ever was. We had a lot more stores, but Duane is an international coffee leader and has created a revolution in coffee across the country.”

Easing into retirement

During the interview, Roberts announced that it was his last day at the café.

“The boss took me off the schedule,” he said. “I’m done.”

Though he is done working a regular schedule at the cafe, he said he would probably substitute from time to time.

Any other plans?

“I'm not sure. I'll think of something. I've always wanted to start some other little type of business, just for the fun of it. Starting businesses and trying to make them work is what I enjoy doing.”

When I asked Patty what she thought about his retirement, she said that Jim would still be around.

Jim nodded, knowing it was probably true. With the contented smile of someone who is happy where he is at, he said “I’m going to come down here and just enjoy drinking coffee.”

After hearing about his life in coffee, it is hard to imagine Jim Roberts doing anything but welcoming people into his café and sharing a cup of coffee with them.

 

*When the recent news of Stumptown’s equity sale to TSG broke, there was a fair amount of chatter around the Portland area about what would happen to one of Portland’s most beloved coffee roasters. Fans of the company’s anti-corporate, rebel-hipster ethos and high-quality coffee worried that once the new owners got hold of the company, the Stumptown experience would change. Their fears were reasonable, as the interests of fast growth and maintaining the same quality are often not aligned.

 

One stiff shot of cold-brew, neat, from Heart Roasters

After starting out with a shot of Heart’s Brazil Daterra espresso this morning, I went back to try some of the café’s iced coffee (‘tis the season, after all—despite the rain).

Heart uses a cold-brew process to make its iced coffee, and today’s offering was from the Kochere region of Ethiopia. Normally when you order a cold-brew, the barista takes some of the coffee concentrate and cuts it with water and ice to make it the right strength for sipping. I find that as the ice melts, you lose some of the rich chocolate notes and taste more of the acidity on the margins. For some time now, I have been planning to try the concentrate without mixing it to see if the drink holds its flavors better, and today seemed like a good time to do it.

Apparently, drinking cold brew straight up is not very common, because the barista had a hard time understanding what I was ordering. Granted, I asked for it in a clumsy manner, since there is no actual name for what I wanted to try. With a little persistence, though, we made it to the same page, and he gave me a glass of the potent concoction.


Short but strong

You would expect a drink that is normally diluted by half to be quite strong, and it was. Inhaling deeply over the glass of mahogany liquid, I could smell a sweetness similar to blackstrap molasses. The richness of the drink came through in its aroma.

When coffee brewed this way hits your tongue, the first impression it gives you is that it is going to be sour or bitter, but then it mellows out quickly into a mouthful of silkiness. The Ethiopian coffee had hints of bittersweet chocolate and pink grapefruit, with a body that lingered, filling my entire mouth with a pleasant satisfaction.

Drinking iced coffee this way is a little like drinking a shot of whiskey—strong up front, with a mellow finish. If you can figure out how to order one, you will probably want to drink it slow. It is a concentrate, so the caffeine per ounce must be pretty high.  

As an everyday drink, a cold-brew “neat” might be a little strong (knock-you-on-your-a$$ strong, really). I wouldn’t order it every time I decide to drink a cold-brewed coffee, but I do foresee ordering it from time to time when I am looking for something a little different.

Coffee(ish) Links for July8

It’s been a slow week around here for posting articles. I have had my head buried in a couple other projects, including learning everything I can about cold coffee, a summertime favorite.

Speaking of summer, it came and left this week. Hope you enjoyed it.

The biggest coffee news of the week in the Portland area was the fireworks-caused fire that caused thousands of dollars of damage to Barista (the café) on Alberta Street. http://bit.ly/pnjMNB The fire didn’t keep the shop closed for long, thanks to Stumptown, who loaned Barista its mobile coffee cart until the café is repaired (photo here).

This New York Times article discusses the growing market for iced coffee. Stumptown gets a mention for its new “stubbies”. http://nyti.ms/nYo8Dy

Investors in the stock market know the difficulties of trying to pick the correct companies for investing. An article from CNBC yesterday presents the arguments for and against buying Starbucks stock. One of the analysts interviewed was quoted as saying that “Starbucks needs to clearly define their long-term vision ‘to become a food conglomerate rather than merely coffee.’” Hmm... http://bit.ly/pbyihq

Is the use of the internet for news taking us back in time? The Economist compares interactive online news with the coffee shops of the 18th and 19th centuries. http://econ.st/pLH1Bc

When you go to a coffee shop, do you notice the art on the walls? Apparently, some coffee shop art in San Francisco has stirred quite a debate over what should and should not go up on the walls of a café. http://bit.ly/p2MZAA

Speaking of coffee shop art, I saw this not too long ago on a café wall around town. Rubber chicken art.

Let the debate commence.

From nuts to fruits: learning how to taste at Ristretto Roasters

Last weekend, after stopping by Overland Park to listen to Leaves Russell perform at the Organic Brewers Festival, I made my way over to Ristretto Roasters café on North Williams Ave., to have some coffee with Jinsu Lee, a South Korean coffee aficionado who has also explored many different cafés around Portland (he provided the photos for this post). We like to get together once in a while to talk about coffee and what the future of the coffee industry might be, especially in South Korea, where specialty coffee is just beginning to take off.

When I got to the café, Jinsu was already sitting at a back table with a group of people.  He waved me over and introduced me to the group—Ryan, Rachel, Hank and Steve (all Ristretto employees) and told me that they had invited us to join them. Unknowingly, we had stumbled upon Ristretto’s weekly Sunday public coffee event.

Each Sunday afternoon at 2:30, Ristretto hosts some kind of event to help educate customers about coffee. Often these are coffee cuppings, but last Sunday’s was a little different. Instead of tasting different coffees, the plan was to taste several different foods as a way to develop and map out our palates. Steve, who is a trainer for Ristretto, led us through the exercise.

Preparing to taste. Photo courtesy Jinsu Lee

Developing a discerning palate is very important for people who work in the coffee industry (especially for coffee buyers and roasters), who need to be sure that they are producing a consistent, high-quality product. It is a skill that takes time to develop. I once heard a café owner tell a group that he and his business partner cupped coffee every single morning for three years. As you can imagine, he felt pretty confident in his ability to detect all of the subtleties and imperfections that are present in a cup of coffee.

If you have read many of my café posts, you know that I try to describe the flavors in each of the coffees. I have mentioned several times that a coffee has hints of berries in it, or some kind of citrus, chocolate or cherries. Two of the more interesting coffees I tried to describe came from Ristretto’s cafés (you can read them here and here). On coffee packages and in conversations with baristas, flavors like dates, honey, leather, tamarind, bergamot, carrots, plums and peaches have also been used. All of these descriptions are somewhat subjective, since we all taste things differently.

A more experienced coffee taster uses less subjective language and describes coffee in terms like acidity, body, sweetness and balance, breaking the coffee down into the responses they cause in our mouth.

The tasting lineup. Photo courtesy Jinsu Lee

Steve’s goal was to teach us to think about tasting in a more methodical way. As we tasted the foods, our assignment was to concentrate on how they felt and where they affected our mouths, tongues and throats. We tasted 10 different foods: almonds, hazelnuts, Brazil nuts, milk chocolate, dark chocolate, avocados, red delicious apples, Granny Smith apples, lemons and limes.

We started out with the least acidic food, the almonds, and then moved step by step toward the most acidic, the limes. Apparently, if you were to start with the limes, the acidity would overload your palate at the beginning and make it much harder to taste the other foods.

Of the three nuts, the almonds were the driest. They were a little bit sweet, affecting the front end of my tongue as I ground them up between my teeth (Speaking of grinding up the almonds, it was kind of amusing to sit there and watch everyone working the foods around their mouths, their faces reflecting a deep concentration as they tried discern all of the tastes and textures. I’m sure I had a funny look on my face too).

The hazelnuts were distinctly sweeter and had more oils in them than the almonds. The Brazil nuts had a little bit of a sandy (mineral) flavor, and were the oiliest of all, leaving a light coating on the inside of my mouth. Steve told us that the difference between the Brazil nuts and the almonds was analogous to the difference between coffees with a lot of body and those without it.

We discussed body some more as we moved into the chocolates. We started with the milk chocolate, which was very sweet and creamy. It had lots of body. The dark chocolate, in contrast, was only a little bit sweet, and it dried out my mouth as I chewed it. Our guide told us that the drying effect came from the tannins in the cocoa. He said it was like a dry wine, where the wine is fermented with the skins still on the grapes. This leaves more of the tannins in the wine, giving the wine that mouth-drying feel.

After the dark chocolate came the avocado. The avocado was another demonstration of something with a lot of body. The oils in the avocado coated our mouths as we swished the slimy fruit around inside them.

The two apples followed the avocado. This was the beginning of the acidity phase of the tasting. The light acidity of the red delicious apple is similar to (though sweeter than) some of the berry or stone fruit acidity that some coffees have. It stays more towards the front of your tongue. The Granny Smith apples are a bit more tart, so as soon as you chew them up, the acidity moves up the sides of your tongue.

When we got to the lemons, everyone prepared to pucker up. We bit enthusiastically into the chunks of raw lemon and WHAM! Faces around the table tightened up as the lemon juice hit our taste buds. The lime had a similar affect. Its acidity grabbed the middle of my tongue, then as I swallowed, it latched onto the back of my throat and lingered. The lime was so acidic that it kind of burned and almost tasted salty. Jinsu quipped that we could have used some tequila to go with it, a statement that was greeted with a nod of agreement from everyone.

After we finished tasting, we sat around for a while and talked about coffee, because that’s what coffee people do when they get together, especially after going through a tasting exercise like this one. We concluded that Portland is a great city to learn about coffee, because cafés like Ristretto are always trying to educate their customers on the finer points of the beverage.

If you are looking for something to do on a Sunday afternoon, I recommend that you stop by Ristretto and check out what they are sharing that day. You might get to try or taste something you’ve never had before, or you might just get to hang around with a bunch of coffee enthusiasts. Either way, you should have a good afternoon at one of Portland’s best cafés.

I Miss the Mob - a lesson in entrepreneurship

The cover of Anything You Want, Derek Sivers' new book

Today I came across a video that I thought you might enjoy. To give you a little background, Derek Sivers, the founder of CD Baby, has just written a new book about entrepreneurship that is being published by the Domino Project. CD Baby is a company that helps independent musicians manage their music sales. Anyone can upload their songs to the company’s servers, and CD Baby will managed the distribution of that music, either as a CD or as a digital download. Sivers founded the company in 1997, and it became very successful, selling millions of albums.  He sold the company a couple years ago and has since moved on to start new ventures to help more aspiring musicians.

I hope to read his book sometime, but today I wanted to share with you a video that he put on the site promoting his book. It has a pretty funny take on the differences between entrepreneurs who are in business because they love what they do and professional businesspeople who are only in business to make money.

 

The video is relevant to Portland, a city that has not yet lost its fun spirit. In my discussions with roasters, baristas and café owners, many of them have told me that while making money is important to them, they are happy to be doing something that they enjoy.

Thanks to all who realize that there is more to business than just dollars and cents. You help keep Portland interesting.